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As pocket-size publication Wallet issue two hits our shelves, we take a closer look at the magazine new highlights. After looking at authority and power in its first issue, Elise By Olsen and her team turn the page to ‘Pioneers of Publishing‘ and focus on the evolution of fashion media and the mechanisms that lie within.
This issue takes interest in the pioneers; those who maintain, challenge and ignore the frames and formats of traditional publishing. Featuring Isabella Burley (Editor-in-Chief, Dazed & Confused), Nick Knight (Director, SHOWstudio) and Joerg Koch (Editor-in-Chief, 032c & SSENSE).
As for the visual component of the issue, Wallet asked fashion workers they admire, who also use publishing as a medium, for contributions as facsimile of their own publications. All the facsimiles were gathered and curated into a 20-page visual essay, featuring Acne Paper, ALYX, Vivienne Westwood, Jacquemus, Kiko Kostadinov and Telfar.
What did you study?
I studied history and North American studies, but I’m a college drop-out. I never finished studying, seeing as there were more exciting things to do.
That seems to be a familiar story. How did you get into the fashion world, and what was your first job in publishing?
Everything I learned about publishing and media is based on growing up in the punk rock, straight-edge, hardcore scene, where it was completely normal to produce fanzines and to put out records yourself. DIY is the defining modus operandi for my work. I did a fanzine for a couple of years as a teenager, but my first real job in publishing was working for Multi-Media Agency. This was when the web was new and I worked on the first web magazine in Germany. From there I became a freelance writer for several German newspapers and magazines, and started an exhibition space with friends before starting with 032c in 2001. Around 2013 I was also the founding Editor-in-Chief of Interview Magazine Germany, where I stayed for about one and a half years.
That sounds very entrepreneurial. Why did you leave Interview Magazine Germany?
I disagreed with the publisher and the direction, et cetera.
That happens! What magazines do you read?
I like newspaper supplements, especially T Magazine, Blau Magazine, Zeit Magazine. Vanity Fair always had a huge influence on 032c. I’m reading Die Spiegel religiously. If you’re asking about new magazines, I love REAL REVIEW by the architect Jack Self, who is also an editor-at-large at 032c. I read a lot of magazines.
We do too! What does your position as Editor-in-Chief of 032c entail?
Everything, I would say! I’m pretty hands-on, even though there’s an incredible team being involved with the magazine. I created 032c 17 years ago, which is such a long time ago when I think about it. The nice thing about 032c is that I can shift the direction of it, and in that way it remains really fresh and current for me – this is a great luxury to have. Even though the essence of the magazine hasn’t changed, there has been different phases that have changed the magazine considerably over time.